A Visit to Nzulezu; Western Ghana’s Stilt Village

The diversity of people in Ghana never ceases to amaze and inspire me. There are the proud Ashanti people whose great empire still echoes through today. Then there are the Ga who have shaped the culture around Accra. Up north, you can meet Fulani, a nomadic group of people who range across West Africa. In Western Region near the border with Ivory Coast, there is a small and unique village, Nzulezu, with its own people.

The Legends and History of Nzulezu

The village of Nzulezu has existed for hundred of years. What makes it so special and unique is that it is built entirely on stilts that hold the village up above the water of the lake. In fact, Nzulezu is an Nzema (the local language) word for “the surface of the water.” 

The legends and oral history say that the people who settled here migrated from the ancient Ghana Empire. They were lead by the spirits through a snail to find the place that they were to settle, which ended up being on the lake. These traditional beliefs are still adhered to, with no fishing happening on Thursdays.

In 2000, Nzulezu was added to the Tentative UNESCO World Heritage Site list

Life in Nzulezu

There is one main wooden walkway, that villagers call “Main Street” with walkways branching off of each side. Each branching walkway is home to one family. The total population for the stilt village is about 500 people.

There are several churches in the village, as well as a primary school and a guesthouse. There is no electricity in village, however, the people make do with car batteries to power their things. Villagers make a living through fishing, farming the nearby land, making akpeteshie (the local alcohol) and through tourism.

One of the main difficulties the village faces is attracting qualified teachers to the school. Teaching assignments for public schools are assigned by the government, however many Ghanaians are scared of living life above the water. This makes it difficult for the village to attract and retain qualified teachers.

There is a land-based Nzulezu as well, where the farms are and about 2,000 family members of those in the stilt village live.

Visiting Nzulezu

Nzulezu is about 90 kilometers west of Takoradi, the capital city of Western Region. To get there, take a tro tro from Tarkwa station and tell them you want to go to Nzulezu.

Once you arrive, you’ll be taken to the visitors’ center where you will have the option for a canoe ride or a motor boat. The canoe trip takes about an hour, while the motor boat takes about 20 minutes. You will have to pay an additional bit of money for the fuel for the motor boat. This payment will cover your ride to and from the village along with a very knowledgeable guide.

Spend some time walking up and down Main Street and