For centuries, people have been enjoying chocolate, which is made from the dried and fermented cacao seeds, and at one point, two small African islands in the Gulf of Guinea were the cocoa capital of the world. The Portuguese colonies of São Tomé and Príncipe were covered in plantations, known as roças, that produced cocoa and coffee for the world’s largest chocolate makers.
Slavery at São Tomé’s Roças
Toward the end of the 19th century, William Cadbury, of Cadbury chocolate, began to investigate the supply chain of the cacao his company bought. He was very much against slavery and wanted to ensure that his company was not supporting such practices.
He sent Joseph Burtt to the islands to inspect the conditions upon which the cacao was being produced. Henry Nevinson, a journalist, had previously visited to verify claims of slavery as well. Both Burtt and Nevinson determined that the labor being used at the roças amounted to slavery and made recommendations to the Portuguese government.
Eventually, Cadbury and other chocolate companies boycott cacao from the islands, which not only had the intended effect of ending slavery there, but decimated the economy which has never truly recovered.
The Fate of the Cocoa Plantations
Many of the roças were unable to sustain themselves even after labor reforms were made, as Ghana and the Ivory Coast had increased their cocoa production to meet demand. These once glorious plantations fell into disrepair across the islands.
A couple of these roças have been rehabilitated as hotels and guesthouses and one is still fully operating. Roça Belo Monte on Príncipe is a wonderful, luxury resort that I cannot recommend enough. Their private beach, Praia Banana is stunning, the activities offered are top notch (wonderful SCUBA diving) and the food and service is top notch.
Roça Monte Forte is still operating as a plantation and offers modest accommodations and wonderful staff. Nestled at between the volcanic rock hills and the west beaches of São Tomé, you’ll be away from even the small crowds that vacation on this tiny island. It’s an excellent spot to use as a base for some hiking and jungle exploration.
There are also options to do day long tours of the roças, including the coffee plantations. I definitely recommend finding a way to take in some of this history of the islands on a visit there.