Bpai Tiao: Yasothon’s Bun Bang Fai (Rocket) Festival

In Thailand, a bpai tiao is a trip of any length. I’ve written about some of my more significant bpai tiaos to tourist destinations here, to be used as travel ideas and tips.

Previously, I posted about the festivals that I was planning on attending this year in Thailand, one of which was the Rocket Festival in Yasothon. That took place this past weekend and I made it out to rural Isaan just for the occasion.

Yasothon, or Yaso as the Thai refer to it, is a pretty rural province, sandwiched between Roi Et and Ubon Ratchathani. All of the guidebooks and references I found to Yaso remarked on its unremarkable-ness, saying that the only reason to really visit is for the festival. One thing that a lot of my Peace Corps friends like to compare, is the number of provinces we’ve been to, so I was happy to add one to my list that I don’t think that anyone else has or will.

Stories for the firing of the rockets vary, most popular being that the rockets will bring good rains during the rainy season. But perhaps more accurately, the tradition has roots in a Buddhist tale, in which the Buddha was giving a sermon that drew away the worshipers of the Sky God. As revenge, the Sky God withheld rains for seven year, seven months and seven days. The Toad King then lead a war against the Sky God and with the help of the Naga defeated him and the Sky God had to agree to never withhold rain again. The rockets are sent up yearly as a reminder to the Sky God of his agreement and the possible consequences of his reneging on this agreement.

I got to Yaso after the big parade on Saturday, which includes traditional dancing in a parade along with elaborately decorated rockets on floats, which I was a little disappointed to have missed this part. However, the party was still raging on numerous stages that lined the main drag in town. After wandering around, taking it all in as most groups began to strike their sets, I was pulled up on stage to dance with a group of women who were all having a very good time. I indulged them for a few songs before excusing myself and figuring out where and when the festivities would be taking place the next day so as not to miss them: 8 a.m. at the municipal park just outside of town.

The next morning, I made my way to the festival grounds, making sure to get there early so as not to miss anything. I actually got there before most everyone, as the place was kind of empty when I got there. But it slowly filled up with spectators and vendors and before I knew it, it was a regular Thai party, complete with beer, Hong Thong, music, dancing, selfies and, of course, rockets launching. It was all really cool to watch and I stayed for nearly the whole thing, until the heat got the better of me.