One thing that is interesting about Thailand, especially with the policies that the junta is pushing, is the concept of a “Thai identity.” Yet, there are between 70 and 75 ethnic groups, some of whom do not identify the Thai identity, and many of the hill tribes are legally barred from having an affiliation with Thai-ness, even if they wanted to. Who are some of these ethnic groups and hill tribes and what is their relation to Thailand?
Karen
The largest ethnic group in Thailand is the Karen, who live along the Burmese border. The Karen are actually a heterogenous group of peoples, with different tribes retaining different languages, different religions and different cultures.
Most people are familiar with the Karen and their fight for a recognized state in Myanmar (Burma), which has been refused or put off by the various ruling groups there. There has been resistance fighting there that has lead to refugees fleeing to Thailand, where there are approximately 400,000 Karen people.
Hmong
The second largest hill tribe in Thailand is another group that migrated here under political pressures, the Hmong people. It’s believed that the Hmong originated in the Yellow River valley in China and migrated to Southeast Asia because of violence and oppression.
The United States recruited Hmong people to work for the CIA and to fight during the Secret War in Laos, and as the Pathet Laos gained more power, many Hmong fled to Thailand. The US Government has never fully acknowledged the extent of its operations in Laos during that time nor the atrocities that many Hmong people experienced. You can read and hear about some of that in a 2012 Radiolab piece and the backlash of how it the story was handled.
There are several different groups of Hmong people, usually identified by the dominant color of their traditional dress, which is widely known for its intricate embroidery. There are around 150,000 Hmong people living in Thailand.
Lahu
Thailand is also home to about 100,000 Lahu people. The Lahu, like the Hmong, migrated from China and are divided into subgroups referred to by the color of their traditional dress. The Lahu were also recruited by the US Government during the Secret War.
Akha
While the Hmong and the Karen, in spite of often being denied Thai citizenship, have done much in the way of assimilation to Thai culture, including adopting Buddhism in a number of areas. In contrast, the Akha people maintain a connection to the Akha Way, a combination of animism, shamanism, ancestor worship and a connection to the land. But, the encroachment of capitalism, the lack of support and infrastructure from the Thai government (many Akha are registered as aliens) has seen the numbers of Akha villages decline in recent years.
Laws have also been passed in Thailand that have affected the indigenous people’s right and access to their lands. They generally live at higher elevations and some of the well known Akha practices include the construction of a spirit gate at the entrance to the village and the swings used in ceremonies to make an offering related to the planting and harvesting of rice. The Akha are also known for their embroidery and the women are known for their unique and elaborate headdresses.
Learn More About the Hill Tribes of Thailand
There are a number of other hill tribes in Thailand, and I highly recommend going to the Hill Tribe Museum in Chiang Rai. It’s free and was started by Khun Mechai Viravaidya’s NGO, Program Development Association. Many tribes participate in hill tribe treks, but such participation can be controversial within the groups.
Often their traditional way of living was destroyed by the dominant culture, forcing them to find other ways of surviving which includes participating in hill tribe treks, causing some people to feel as if they are just being put on display for Westerners. Do some research before joining a tour and take the experience with the group of people as something to be shared and celebrated with others.